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October 1, 2022 open
I wanted to have a kappo restaurant in Gion that was easy to get into," says Shimizu, explaining the reason for opening his restaurant in this town. [He trained at Kikunoi Roan for eight years, and after working at a kappo restaurant, he became independent at the age of 27. He was 27 years old when he set up his own restaurant, which seems very early in this industry. I was not without anxiety, but I was more interested in owning my own restaurant," he says in a matter-of-fact tone of voice, which shows his strong will. Shimizu, whose family owned a store, grew up in an environment where foodstuffs were close at hand, and he was interested in cooking from an early age. Having long envisioned becoming a full-fledged chef, it was probably not too early for Mr. Shimizu to start his own business in his twenties.
Sashimi from 1,600 yen and up, made from fresh fish purchased from all over Japan, are always available in four to five varieties. On this day, we had the chewy and tasty kijihata grouper and tuna smoked with rice straw and flavored with aroma.
Sea bream kill oil hell - 3,500 yen. The scales are slowly grilled over a charcoal fire after the scales have been set upside down, so the meat is juicy and the scales are crispy. Plenty of karasumi (sea bream)
Hamo no shabu-shabu (hamo no shabu-shabu) for 2,200 yen. The hamo's deliciousness is enhanced by condiments and broth such as yellow chives from Okayama Prefecture. Enjoy hamo in the autumn when the fat is at its peak!
A la carte dishes are available for casual patrons, and courses are reasonably priced for Gion at 9,900 yen. The signature dish, "sea bream kill in oil hell," named after a Kabuki play, is prepared by pouring oil on the fish in front of the customers to make the scales stand on end. The counter seating allows diners to enjoy the fascinating cuisine. Other dishes, such as horumon udon (hormone udon), a specialty of his hometown of Tsuyama City in Okayama Prefecture, and tofu paste with meat, are also rare in Kyoto. The restaurant also serves local Okayama sake, such as Taisho no Tsuru and Gozenshu, and we secretly hope to support the young owner, whose love of his hometown is evident in many of his dishes.
Atsushi Shimizu, owner. Born in Tsuyama City, Okayama Prefecture. At the age of 18, he moved to Kyoto to become a chef, which had been his dream since kindergarten. [After training at restaurants such as Kikunoi Roan, he became independent at the age of 27.
Gion Shishi
Gion Festival (in Kyoto during the month of July, with high point on the 17th)
October 01, 2022 open
127 Tominaga-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
5-minute walk from Keihan Gion-Shijo Station
Tel. 075-366-5254
12:00-14:00, 18:00-23:00 (LO/22:30)
Closed on Sundays
Lunch is by appointment only
No smoking in the restaurant. No private rooms. No parking.
https://www.instagram.com/shishishi_kyoto/
PHOTO / Katsunori Hatanaka, TEXT / Eiko Itakura
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